The Adventurous Flight to Lukla

After about 35 minutes of flight from Kathmandu to Lukla on a DHC Twin Otter, the pilot was getting ready for the final approach. We could see through cluttered clouds nothing but hills all around us. Negotiating through several layers of clouds, the pilot cleared a high ridge, immediately banked lefts and started descending steeply. Few of us began praying; some were holding the seat handles tight with their mouth wide open producing deafening high pitch sounds. The pilot fired the throttle to maximum and adjusting wings pulled the propellers into reverse just before touchdown inflicting the stall indicator to go off. Jubilation was on the air followed by a round of applause as the aircraft headed towards the apron. It took us quite a while to snap out of the adrenalin rush we had just experienced.

Ever since it was built in 1965, under Sir Edmond Hillary’s initiative, Lukla airport has been dubbed as one of the dangerous airports in the world. Not because the airfield is at an elevation of 2860m (9380ft) with a 700m (2000ft) drop at the end of the runway, but because of dynamic weather which can close in instantly (reason behind 2008 crash) and high hill at other end of the runway.

The length of the runway is 450m and 20m wide and the runway incline is 12%. So, only short takeoff and landing (STOL) fixed winged aircrafts such as DHC Twin Otter and Dornier Do 228 and helicopters are permitted to access this facility. The apron can hold 4 aircrafts and a heli-pad few meters below ATC building. There are no landing aids and Air Traffic Service is limited to AFIS (Aerodrome Flight Information Service) only. These conditions state that there is only one chance to land and no room for error.

Due to the unreliable weather, all flights are operated in the morning till noon or sometimes beyond, if weather permits. Turn over time for a plane is about 15min but during busy schedule it can be much less. It is the busiest airport in Nepal. As many as 50 flights per day are in operation. I, myself have had the opportunity of dispatching the same aircraft five times to Lukla in a day between 7am and 2pm, while working for an airline back in late 90s.

Lukla airport has seen its share of misfortunes. First was in 1973 when DHC-6 Twin Otter was damaged beyond repair while landing but crew and passengers were unhurt. Five more followed in almost four decades with about 40 human casualties. Considering the number of flights to and from, the flights can be regarded as safe as driving a car in any big city.

90% to 95% trekkers fly to Lukla before heading towards Mt. Everest. The only alternative is to hike 4-5 days from Jiri. Most travelers find the flight once in a life time experience, but few get outraged by the intensity and vulnerability of the flight. If you ask me, I liked every bit of it and can’t wait to get back on a plane and fly off to Lukla.

In January 2008, the government of Nepal renamed Lukla airport to Tenzing-Hillary airport to commemorate Sir Edmond Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, first persons to scale Mount Everest.